Swedish Bolin Pumps (And Anti-Freeze in Systems)

[Pengalanty]

I have also experienced a Bolin pump failing after 2 seasons.
My replacement (24-volt) Bolin, purchased from Kuranda is now
showing signs of failing, with water leak stains down the outside of the casing.

Like (nb.Bream owner), I too wrote to Bolin directly. I had good positive and helpful replies from them. (The price Kuranda want is over £130, or so. I understand and Bolin will repair! ~See Below~

One of the technical staff replied saying that because we do not have the severe winter weather that Sweden experiences, the water in central heating systems did not have anti-freeze added and the "rust" and other small particles that comes off the steel radiators, tend to wear the seal around the shaft of the impeller.

They recommend "Please try to add ## Propylene glycol ## to your system"

Can anyone advise please?

Is antifreeze with ## Ethylene Glycol ## the same as the above, or does it have the same basic make-up, presumably to stop corrosion of Alloy and Steel components?

I initially used "Fernox". This is popular in standard house central heating systems. It has been in my system for far too long and it's useful life has probably expired by now!

I use "Long Life" Antifreeze in my car and boat engines and it has EG in it. The spec. says dilute on a 50/50 ratio.

Advice is possible please, so that I can put the "best" stuff in my C/H before the winter arrives. ~Allan~
PS: FOR THOSE INTERESTED a part copy and paste is below, with direct replacement costs, including postage, received yesterday from Bolin:

EX>Bolin E-Mail<
Hi
Sorry that you have had problems with your pumps!
First of all, the Bolin Pump is repairable!
We can help you!
We charge SEK 225 plus the parts that have to be replaced.
Total maximum SEK 600.
A new pump will cost you SEK 1485 from us.

We also have to charge you for the freight.. If we send the pump as ?a large letter? the cost is SEK 100 and as a package SEK 265.(Letters can not be tracked if they are lost)

I would like to know if your system is under pressure, which could be the reason for the leaking. Also the impeller are extreme sensible if it is crooked so the sealing doesn?t work.



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[Steve Wood]

I'm pretty sure I have a spare Bolin 12V motor knocking around somewhere
in my spares if anyone needs one. I bought a couple of them directly
from Sweden a few years ago, but later swapped to a 24V system with more
chunky pumps when the refit was done in 2007 so it is redundant. (Don't
recall what happened to the pump itself.)

Steve
NB Bream

Post by Pengalanty
I have also experienced a Bolin pump failing after 2 seasons.
My replacement (24-volt) Bolin, purchased from Kuranda is now
showing signs of failing, with water leak stains down the outside of the casing.
Like (nb.Bream owner), I too wrote to Bolin directly. I had good positive and helpful replies from them. (The price Kuranda want is over £130, or so. I understand and Bolin will repair! ~See Below~
One of the technical staff replied saying that because we do not have the severe winter weather that Sweden experiences, the water in central heating systems did not have anti-freeze added and the "rust" and other small particles that comes off the steel radiators, tend to wear the seal around the shaft of the impeller.
They recommend "Please try to add ## Propylene glycol ## to your system"
Can anyone advise please?
Is antifreeze with ## Ethylene Glycol ## the same as the above, or does it have the same basic make-up, presumably to stop corrosion of Alloy and Steel components?
I initially used "Fernox". This is popular in standard house central heating systems. It has been in my system for far too long and it's useful life has probably expired by now!
I use "Long Life" Antifreeze in my car and boat engines and it has EG in it. The spec. says dilute on a 50/50 ratio.
Advice is possible please, so that I can put the "best" stuff in my C/H before the winter arrives. ~Allan~
EX>Bolin E-Mail<
Hi
Sorry that you have had problems with your pumps!
First of all, the Bolin Pump is repairable!
We can help you!
We charge SEK 225 plus the parts that have to be replaced.
Total maximum SEK 600.
A new pump will cost you SEK 1485 from us.
We also have to charge you for the freight.. If we send the pump as ?a large letter? the cost is SEK 100 and as a package SEK 265.(Letters can not be tracked if they are lost)
I would like to know if your system is under pressure, which could be the reason for the leaking. Also the impeller are extreme sensible if it is crooked so the sealing doesn?t work.
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Yahoo! Groups Links

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[Neil Arlidge]

Post by Pengalanty
I have also experienced a Bolin pump failing after 2 seasons.
My replacement (24-volt) Bolin, purchased from Kuranda is now
showing signs of failing, with water leak stains down the outside of the casing.
Like (nb.Bream owner), I too wrote to Bolin directly. I had good
positive and helpful replies from them. (The price Kuranda want is
over £130, or so. I understand and Bolin will repair! ~See Below~
One of the technical staff replied saying that because we do not have
the severe winter weather that Sweden experiences, the water in
central heating systems did not have anti-freeze added and the "rust"
and other small particles that comes off the steel radiators, tend to
wear the seal around the shaft of the impeller.
They recommend "Please try to add ## Propylene glycol ## to your system"
Can anyone advise please?
Is antifreeze with ## Ethylene Glycol ## the same as the above, or
does it have the same basic make-up, presumably to stop corrosion of
Alloy and Steel components?
I initially used "Fernox". This is popular in standard house central
heating systems. It has been in my system for far too long and it's
useful life has probably expired by now!
I use "Long Life" Antifreeze in my car and boat engines and it has EG
in it. The spec. says dilute on a 50/50 ratio.
Advice is possible please, so that I can put the "best" stuff in my
C/H before the winter arrives. ~Allan~

I have been advised by Haworth Heating to use the less well known Fernox
inhibitor Alphi-11 in my Bubble 24v Pressure jet boiler. This boiler does
not have Bollin pumps, but equally sensitive to rusty sludge magnetic drive
Bosch ones.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/59505/Plumbing/Central-Heating-Treatment/Fernox-Alphi-11-5Ltr

http://www.fernox.com/files/Fernox/Content/PDF/English/Alphi%2011%205L.pdf
which contains inhibitor and more importantly the mono-propylene glycol
antifreeze Bolin specified.

Neil Arlidge
Barge Maurice A / NB Earnest
TNC http://www.tuesdaynightclub.co.uk/tour.html





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[Adrian Stott]

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 06:26:07 -0000, "Pengalanty"

Post by Pengalanty
I have also experienced a Bolin pump failing after 2 seasons.
My replacement (24-volt) Bolin, purchased from Kuranda is now
showing signs of failing, with water leak stains down the outside of the casing.

I tried a Bolin a few years ago, when I learned of (and experienced)
the relatively short expected working life of the Johnsons I had been
using (which were lasting only a couple of years).

However, the pump lasted no longer than its predecessor, and I didn't
replace it or try to fix it. It was the motor (bearing) that failed
-- nothing to do with the quality of the water in the system, and I
had no confidence that another one would have a better bearing. Too
bad, as the pump's energy consumption was very small.

Bolin was very helpful and courteous. At one point I even ended up
speaking to Ms Bolin herself.

I then had a long chat with Cleghorn & Waring (which is based not far
from me), and as a result bought from it another Johnson. The stated
expected life was now much longer. I still have it several years
later (it runs the heating all winter). C&W said then that pump
design was improving rapidly, and expected life would probably
continue to increase.

I did consider using a standard house 240 V pump (in parallel to a DC
one), using the former only when I am attached to shore power, which
is most of the winter. I may yet.

Adrian




Adrian Stott
Tel. UK (0)7956-299966



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[Iain Street]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Pengalanty" <pengalanty-gM/Ye1E23mwN+***@public.gmane.org>
To: <canals-list-***@public.gmane.org>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: [canals-list] Swedish Bolin Pumps (And Anti-Freeze in Systems)


(snip)

Post by Pengalanty
One of the technical staff replied saying that because we do not have the
severe winter >weather that Sweden experiences, the water in central
heating systems did not have anti->freeze added and the "rust" and other
small particles that comes off the steel radiators, tend >to wear the seal
around the shaft of the impeller.

Would it be worth putting a sediment filter in the system, before the pump?

[Brian on Harnser]

Post by Iain Street
Would it be worth putting a sediment filter in the system, before the pump?

I was in Plumb Centre last week and they have a magnetic vortex central
heating filter

[c***@public.gmane.org]

Brian remarked

Post by Brian on Harnser

Post by Iain Street
Would it be worth putting a sediment filter in the system, before the pump?

I was in Plumb Centre last week and they have a magnetic vortex central
heating filter

Try Magnaclean

http://www.adeysolutions.co.uk/magnaclean_professional.asp

or

Fernox TF2

Beeky


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[Pengalanty]

Post by Brian on Harnser

Post by Iain Street
Would it be worth putting a sediment filter in the system, before the pump?

I was in Plumb Centre last week and they have a magnetic vortex central
heating filter
--
Brian traveling on Harnser
http://nbharnser.blogspot.com/

I already have one of these fitted, (Made in China, I believe).
They are ##excellent ##. There is a large plastic "Bobbin" inside that fits the "Raw Earth" very strong magnet. After turning off the 2 valves on the back, unscrew the top, (Usually stuck), then just get a kitchen paper towel and wipe off all the sludge and refit. Nothing could be easier. I always wonder where all the sludge comes from. ~Allan~



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[Iain Street]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Pengalanty" <pengalanty-gM/Ye1E23mwN+***@public.gmane.org>
To: <canals-list-***@public.gmane.org>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 6:35 AM
Subject: [canals-list] Re: Swedish Bolin Pumps (And Anti-Freeze in Systems)


(snip)

Post by Pengalanty
I always wonder where all the sludge comes from. ~Allan~

Basically, the radiators. The iron combines with oxygen in the water to form
magnetite (Fe3O4, IIRC). The process is encouraged by electrolytic action
between the steel radiators and copper pipes.

Iain



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[Pengalanty]

Post by Iain Street
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 6:35 AM
Subject: [canals-list] Re: Swedish Bolin Pumps (And Anti-Freeze in Systems)
(snip)

Post by Pengalanty
I always wonder where all the sludge comes from. ~Allan~

Basically, the radiators. The iron combines with oxygen in the water to form
magnetite (Fe3O4, IIRC). The process is encouraged by electrolytic action
between the steel radiators and copper pipes.
Iain

How interesting! (Seriously). I didn't know.
One learns something every day. Thanks for the info! ~Allan~



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[ap4098]

Post by Pengalanty
They recommend "Please try to add ## Propylene glycol ## to your system"
Can anyone advise please?
Is antifreeze with ## Ethylene Glycol ## the same as the above, or does it have the same basic make-up, presumably to stop corrosion of Alloy and Steel components?

No it is not but both have corrosion inhibitors and are available in two and five year lives from Motor Factors. It is the corrosion inhibitors that probably get "used up". hence the "life". I normally advise a maximum of 50% antifreeze although most of the diesel boiler manufacturers say 30%.

It is VITAL to give the system a really thorough flush if you suspect there may be any Ethylene Glycol present because it reacts with Propylene Glycol to form a jelly like substance.

Tony Brooks



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[Pengalanty]

Post by ap4098

Post by Pengalanty
They recommend "Please try to add ## Propylene glycol ## to your system"
Can anyone advise please?
Is antifreeze with ## Ethylene Glycol ## the same as the above, or does it have the same basic make-up, presumably to stop corrosion of Alloy and Steel components?

No it is not but both have corrosion inhibitors and are available in two and five year lives from Motor Factors. It is the corrosion inhibitors that probably get "used up". hence the "life". I normally advise a maximum of 50% antifreeze although most of the diesel boiler manufacturers say 30%.
It is VITAL to give the system a really thorough flush if you suspect there may be any Ethylene Glycol present because it reacts with Propylene Glycol to form a jelly like substance.
Tony Brooks

Thanks for your wise comments Tony!
My central heating system has Fernox Inhibitor in it.
I propose to drain down and thoroughly flushing the system,
refilling with Fernox again. This does have some Propylene
Glycol in it, (Looked at the spec). ~Allan~



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